Revisiting sustainability: Earthship living

Some years ago, I have written about the organisation, Earthship Biotecture here and here. I still maintain my stand that it is a useful model for sustainable living. As their "Earthships" (what they call their sustainable houses) are based mostly in USA, I have my doubts whether their designs are effective here in tropical Singapore. Nevertheless, they can provide a good starting point for further modification if anyone here wants to have their own sustainable house.

Figure from Earthship Biotecture: Exterior of an Earthship. This is 1 of several different designs.

Figure from Earthship Biotecture: Interior of an Earthship showing a "botanical cell" (the plants area) for grey water treatment

In fact, the Earthship was an inspiration for our very own sustainable living lab in SP (Singapore Polytechnic). I was involved in the designs for the rainwater harvesting (RWH) and grey water recycling (GWR) modules. These culminated in a functional prototype set up in SP - mentioned in some of my earlier posts (1, 2).










Essentially, our lab was planned as a fully functional and sustainable living space equivalent to a 4-room flat. Besides showcasing certain environmental technologies, it was to serve as a practical classroom for our students. But due to reasons which I will not disclose here, the project was terminated. Despite our disappointment, it was a good learning experience for all those involved in its planning and design.










For those out there who want to try their hands to build their very own living lab, I suggest starting with the following books from Earthship Biotechture. (They have apparently come up with more books but these were the two that started me on exploring the world of sustainable living.)






Earthship: How to Build Your Own, Vol. 1



Water From The Sky

For a review that I have written on Water from the Sky, check out here. 






Imagine building a house with old tyres, empty glass bottles, soda cans and ramped earth. Fix up the roof with solar panels and a rainwater harvesting design. Clean up your grey water (i.e. water from the sink, shower, laundry) with plants. Not forgetting you can munch into the fruits e.g. bananas borne by the afore mentioned plants. The "clean" grey water can now be sent to flush your toilet. Water for drinking, cooking and bathing are from the rain. Yup, that about describes what an Earthship is about.




Admittedly, sustainable living is more than living in a green house (NOT greenhouse) or even an Earthship. It includes a whole slew of lifestyle choices that can be inconvenient, uncomfortable or costly. You may have to forgo that dazzling 56" LCD TV or that therapeutic soak in a bathtub (sorry, you have to use the shower like everyone else). Recycled cards are not exactly cheap. Heck, it is far simpler to get your water from the utilities company than having to store rainwater and attending to the maintenance of your RWH system. At least, you worry less about mozzies when your water comes piped in.




Nevertheless, a house designed for sustainability is a good first step to green living. And if it is truly well thought out, the issues of inconvenience, discomfort and cost can be mitigated.






How do I test my own tap water: a DIY guide (part 2)

Hi folks,


Please refer to my previous post for an introduction to this topic of DIY testing of tap water by consumer.


First off, let me be the first to admit that I do not test my own tap water. The tap water testing I do is always part of our curriculum, whether as project work or practical training for our students. And occasionally, consultancy work.


However, if you have reason to suspect something is amiss in your tap water, do not be afraid to try testing yourself. Where you take your results from there depends on what you find. You may consider sending some samples to an accredited lab for a more accurate and precise analysis. (For folks in Singapore, I suggest looking for a SAC (Singapore Accreditation Council) - SINGLAS accredited lab through their website. But do look through another of my previous posts on Testing your drinking water - the whys and why nots if you decide to go this route. It also contains the names of labs that I have ever had contact with.


Regardless, here are what I recommend for the independent thinking DIY consumer.


1. E. coli



Industrial Test Systems 487197 WaterWorks EZ Cult Bacteria Test. USD9.77

Each package makes for only 1 test. What I like is it can test for both coliforms and E. coli. (You will need an additional UV light source for E. coli though.) Though not as idiot-proof as a test strip, it should still be manageable for a layperson.


Take note: you need to have an environment of a reasonably steady temperature for the incubation phase - 22-28oC for 48h OR 32-38oC for 24h. You also have to scrupulously clean your hands and contact surfaces to avoid contaminating the kit to produce a false positive result. Being a test kit, the result will not tell the concentration of E. coli in your water. It does tell you whether they are present OR not which is good enough since the guideline value is less than 1cfu (colony forming unit)/100mL water.



2. pH




ColorpHast 9590-3 Test Strips, 0-14 pH (Box of 100). USD19.70

My favourite pH test strips. We actually use these in our labs too. It provides testing in the full pH range of 0-14. Very idiot-proof - just dip one strip in a water sample and take out to match against the colour chart for your pH. This should be a standard item for every water tester.
3. Lead




PurTest DIY Lead Water Testing Kit. USD16.95

A little pricey for 1 single test but simple enough to use. As it is based on an immunoassay, it does not involve chemical reactions and heating. Like many test kits, its result shows lead content above or below 15ug/L. (The WHO guideline value is actually 10ug/L. In this case, the test kit is based on U.S. EPA standard.)


4. Copper



Hach 2745125 Copper Test Strips, 0-3 mg/L. USD23.39

Idiot-proof test strip style of use. This is something we have used before and we find it quick and easy. It's colour graduations allow you to differentiate among 0, 0.2, 0.5, 1 and 3mg/L.
5. Electrical conductivity (EC)
Check out my previous post for a discussion among 3 closely related parameters - EC, total dissolved solids and salinity. My personal preference is to measure EC because it is the fundamental parameter that the other 2 are usually derived from.


Unfortunately, there is no test strip for EC. The following is identical to the one I have been using for years except it is sold under a different brand. It is waterproof and floats on water if you accidentally drop it. Of course, the batteries have to changed periodically. And I changed sensor (the lower portion which goes into the water) once. Easy to measure. The only peeve is you have to calibrate it once in a while to get an accurate reading. And that involves getting a couple bottles of calibration solutions.




Oakton ECTestr 11 dual-range, pin-style pocket conductivity tester. USD79.42 

Please note that the above instrument is only suitable for drinking or fresh water. Do not try using it in brackish or seawater in case some of you are tempted to test it in  your seawater aquarium.


6. Hydrogen sulphide


Industrial Test Systems WaterWorks 481197-20 Hydrogen Sulfide Test Strip, Low Range, 1 Minute and 20 Second Test Time, 0-2ppm Range (Pack of 30). USD16.45

Yup, one more test strip kind of measurement. You will need to a good eye to differentiate the colours sometimes. But I suppose most test strips have this disadvantage.


7. Iron



Hach 2745325 Iron Test Strips (Total Dissolved Iron), 0-5 mg/L. USD23.39

A bit more complicated than a test strip as you have to add in a reaction powder (shown as foil satchels above). Still, should not be a problem for anyone who can follow instructions. Also something we have used comfortably in the past. Note that the lowest concentration of iron measured is 0.15mg/L since this is a test kit rather than a laboratory instrument costing tens of thousands.







8. Manganese


Industrial Test Systems 481020 SenSafe Manganese Test. USD27.29

Another dip and read test strip. Colour graduations allow differentiation among 0.02, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.5, 1.0, 2.0mg/L.<0 .02="" 0.05="" 0.1="" 0.2="" 0.5="" 1.0="" 2.0="" mg="" p="">
I personally have not used items 1, 3, 6 and 8 but they look promising based on their descriptions and reviews. Item 6 has a mixed review but there is apparently little choice in test strips for hydrogen sulphide.


I also realise that not all the items can be directly shipped out of USA. Therefore, if you really need it and can't find it from another source, you may consider getting a freight forwarder to send it to your country from USA. If you are staying in Singapore like I do, my current favourite forwarder is Ezbuy based on its service and pricing.
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How do I test my own tap water: a DIY guide (part 1)

I had received queries about testing one's tap water without going through the hassle of sending water samples to a lab i.e. the DIY route.

If at all possible, get a water quality report from your water utility company first. This will save you a lot of trouble and perhaps even eliminate the need for DIY water testing.

I believe it is a requirement of water utilities in the United States to provide one to the consumer. However, here in Singapore, we do not have such a luxury. If you express concern about the safety of your tap water, the one and only water utility (PUB) here will respond and send a staff down to your place to collect samples. When your report comes in, it will state safe or unsafe. (I suppose if it is unsafe, they will do further tests and probably act to rectify the problem.) Nowhere in your "report" will  you see the water quality parameters measured and what their values are.

And you want to take matters into your own hands, testing your water DIY is possible. However, the average consumer will be lost and not know where to start. Hopefully, this post will clarify your doubts and give you the confidence to go ahead.

Here, I assume that you are getting your drinking water from the tap. If your water source is a well, surface water body (e.g. pond, river) or others, you may want to check out my previous posts pertaining to a rural setting.

In another post, I actually provided several vendors in Singapore supplying water quality testing equipment. I did not touch on what parameters to check though. also, these vendors tend to deal with businesses and organisations, rather than the average Joe end user.

This previous post suggested the use water testing strips which is still my stand for the average consumer venturing into the world of water quality testing. I will continue with this idea in this discussion. But please be aware of their limitations as given in my post.

What am I suppose to measure?
Without reinventing the wheel, I have taken a leaf out the U.S. EPA (Environment Protection Agency) for the following table.

Conditions or Nearby Activities:	Test for:
Recurring gastro-intestinal illness	Coliform bacteria
Household plumbing contains lead	pH, lead, copper
Radon in indoor air or region is radon rich	Radon
Corrosion of pipes, plumbing	Corrosion, pH, lead
Nearby areas of intensive agriculture	Nitrate, pesticides, coliform bacteria
Coal or other mining operations nearby	Metals, pH, corrosion
Gas drilling operations nearby	Chloride, sodium, barium, strontium
Dump, junkyard, landfill, factory, gas station or dry-cleaning operation nearby	Volatile organic compounds, total dissolved solids, pH, sulfate, chloride, metals
Odor of gasoline or fuel oil, and near gas station or buried fuel tanks	Volatile organic compounds
Objectionable taste or smell	Hydrogen sulfide, corrosion, metals
Stained plumbing fixtures, laundry	Iron, copper, manganese
Salty taste and seawater, or a heavily salted roadway nearby	Chloride, total dissolved solids, sodium
Scaly residues, soaps don’t lather	Hardness
Rapid wear of water treatment equipment	pH, corrosion
Water softener needed to treat hardness	Manganese, iron
Water appears cloudy, frothy or colored	Color, detergents

Looks lengthy? I have narrowed the list by highlighting those conditions which I believe are more likely in an urban setting.

Here's my list of parameters to test for in tap water

No.	Parameter	EPH regulations	My take
1	E. coli	< 1 cfu/100mL	An important microbiological indicator. Its presence indicates a high probability of contamination from human fecal matter
2	pH	6.5-9.5	Though pH is not a chemical substance, its deviation from the regulated range indicates a  problematic water that deserves further investigation. Anyway, it is so simple to measure, nobody should forgo its testing.
3	Lead	10ug/L	Commonly leached from lead piping and fittings in older installations. It causes serious bodily harm so I consider it a priority for testing.
4	Copper	2mg/L	Commonly leached from copper piping and fittings. Though less toxic than lead (notice the value in mg/L instead of ug/L), it can cause complications in people with compromised health.
5	Electrical conductivity (EC)	-	No value given by EPH or WHO. I suggest using the range in PUB water as a guideline: 92-527 uS/cm Like pH, EC is not a chemical substance. However its deviation from the normal range should warrant further investigation.
6	Hydrogen sulfide	-	Not measured in PUB's standard water quality report. And I suggest this be measured only you observe foul smells from the water. A concentration above 0.5mg/L should be enough to produce observable smell.
7	Iron	-	No value given by EPH or WHO as iron is typically not toxic in normal concentrations. However, it can cause staining on clothing and materials. If you have such an occurrence, you may want to measure it. I suggest using the range in PUB water as a guideline: <0 .003-0.013mg="" font="">
8	Manganese	0.4mg/L	Update by author: (For some reason, this row as missed out in copying over.) Manganese is typically not toxic in normal concentrations. However, it can cause staining on clothing and materials. If you have such an occurrence, you may want to measure it.

• * Environmental Public Health (EPH) (Quality of Piped Drinking Water) Regulations 2008 are based on WHO guidelines for drinking water quality.
• For some reason, PUB tends to change its web addresses a bit. The latest report with the EPH values can be found here.
  
  
• I would say that parameters 1, 2, 3, 4 are the basic ones you should measure. If you have a bit more money to spare, EC (parameter 5) should be part of your routine too.
• Hydrogen sulphide is only necessary if you smell foul odours.
• Iron and manganese should be measured if you find stain on clothing or other materials.

I will make my recommendation for DIY testing in a subsequent post. Look out for it!